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Radiant Barriers
Radiant barrier installations date back to
the 1930s. They are a potentially inexpensive way to protect a building from
undesirable heat gain. These thin, reflective foil sheets exhibit low emissivity
(radiant energy transmission) and, under appropriate conditions, can block
radiant heat transfer. The radiant barrier is usually installed in the attic to
reduce heat flow through the roof assembly into the house. When properly
installed, it reduces summer attic overheating and saves on air-conditioning
expenses. Using radiant barriers to reduce space heating losses has had mixed
test results, however. In some cases, they have even increased heating costs.
How Radiant Barrier Systems Work
A radiant barrier reduces heat transfer.
Heat travels from a warm area to a cool area by conduction, convection, and
radiation. Heat flows by conduction from a hotter material to a colder
material when the two materials are in direct physical contact. Heat transfer
by natural convection occurs when a liquid or gas is heated, becomes less
dense, and rises. Thermal radiation, or radiant heat, travels in a straight
line away from a hot surface and heats any object in its path.
When sunshine heats a roof, most of the
heat conducts through the exterior roofing materials to the inside surface of
the roof sheathing. Heat then transfers by radiation across the attic space to
the next material, either the top of the attic insulation or the attic floor.
A radiant barrier, properly installed in one of many locations between the
roof surface and the attic floor, will significantly reduce radiant heat flow.
Thermal insulation on the attic floor resists the flow of heat through the
ceiling into the living space below. The rate at which insulation resists this
flow determines the insulation's R-value. The amount of thermal insulation
affects the potential radiant barrier energy savings. For example, installing
a radiant barrier in an attic that already has high levels of insulation (R-30
or above) would result in much lower energy savings than an attic insulated at
a low level (R-11 or less).
All radiant barriers use reflective foil
that blocks radiant heat transfer. In an attic, a radiant barrier that faces
an air space can block up to 95% of the heat radiating down from a hot roof.
Only a single, thin, reflective surface is necessary to produce this reduction
in radiant heat transfer. Additional layers of foil do little more to reduce
the remaining radiant heat flow.
Conventional types of insulation consist
of fibers or cells that trap air or contain a gas to retard heat conduction.
These types of insulation reduce conductive and radiant heat transfer at a
rate determined by their R-value. Radiant barriers reduce only radiant heat
transfer. There is no current method for assigning an R-value to radiant
barriers. The reduction in heat flow achieved by the installation of a radiant
barrier depends on a number of factors, such as ventilation rates, ambient air
temperatures, geographical location, amount of roof solar gains, and the
amount of conventional insulation present.
Several factors effect the
cost-effectiveness of installing a radiant barrier. You should examine the
performance and cost savings of at least three potential insulation options:
adding additional conventional insulation, installing a radiant barrier, and
adding both conventional insulation and a radiant barrier.
Selection Criteria
First, you should determine if the radiant
barrier will be effective in your climate. Radiant barriers tend to offer a
much lower potential for energy savings in colder climates. The reasons for
this will be discussed in a later section.
Although emittance, or emissivity, is
the most important property of a radiant barrier, most barriers on the market
today have the same emittance values (between 0.03 to 0.05). Therefore, you
should consider other characteristics (strength, flammability, availability,
and cost) before you choose a particular brand of radiant barrier.
Tensile strength, or resistance to
tearing, is an important property of radiant barriers, especially for the
"do-it-yourself" installation. The most effective way to test brand
strength is to obtain samples and try to tear them by hand. Although some
brands are nearly indestructible, others tear easily. A barrier that tears
easily may rip at fastening points. The types that are least susceptible to
tearing usually have a woven mesh between two sheets of foil. This mesh is
often comprised of fiberglass thread. Be aware that not all mesh provides
adequate strength. Loosely woven mesh tears more easily than tightly woven
mesh. An alternative to mesh is the "bubble-pack" radiant barrier.
This has a polyethylene air pack (typically found as packaging material)
sandwiched between two layers of foil. It is almost as strong as a mesh
radiant barrier.
You should also check the flammability
rating of any radiant barrier you are considering. Although aluminum foil is
not flammable, other materials that make up a radiant barrier may be.
Plastics, untreated Kraft paper, and some adhesives burn. When you install a
radiant barrier in the attic, choose one that has a Uniform Building Code (UBC)
Class I, or National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Class A, flammability
rating.
Installation
You may retrofit radiant barriers or
install them in new construction. There is a variety of installation options
for radiant barriers. Traditionally, in new construction, you drape the
radiant barrier, foil-face down, across the tops of the roof framing before
applying the roof sheathing. The barrier droops between the supports, leaving
a 1.5 to 2.0 inch air space between it and the roof sheathing. Some builders
prefer to attach the reflective insulation directly onto the roof sheathing
prior to installing the sheathing. Foil-faced plywood panels are now
available; they may be used adjacent to an airspace to accomplish about the
same result within the same installation time. The roof shingle industry is
even looking into laminating radiant barrier material onto shingles.
You may also install a radiant barrier on the underside of the roof supports.
This is a popular retrofit technique. For single-sided radiant barriers,
remember to orient the reflective face downward, towards the attic, to
minimize the effect of dust accumulation. Studies have shown that dust
accumulation on radiant barriers can significantly reduce their effectiveness.
You can install a radiant barrier on top of attic floor insulation in both
retrofits and new construction, however, this application is more susceptible
to dust accumulation. Placing the barrier on top of attic floor insulation may
also trap moisture in some locales.
In cold climates, a radiant barrier on
the cold, or outer, side of the insulation increases the risk of moisture
accumulation on the warm side of the barrier. Leakage of warm, moist air from
the house interior can condense and accumulate as frost on the radiant
barrier. When this frost melts, water may drain back into and possibly through
the insulation. This may damage ceiling material below. Even perforated
radiant barriers can trap moisture in cold climates. Because of this, many
energy specialists, various energy organizations, and the Reflective
Insulation Manufacturers Association recommend not applying the radiant
barrier directly on top of the attic floor insulation in cold climates.
In all radiant barrier systems, the
radiant barrier must be directly adjacent to an air space. When you use a
single-sided radiant barrier, the reflective, or shiny, side of the radiant
barrier should face downward. This reduces the dust accumulation on the shiny
surface that causes a drop in efficiency. Many manufacturers produce
double-faced radiant barriers, which have foil on both sides. Although this
does not make the barrier significantly more effective, it does eliminate the
facing question. Usually, double-faced barriers cost little more than
single-faced barriers.
How Effective are Radiant Barriers?
As noted above, radiant barrier systems
successfully reduce heat gain. During the summer, an attic radiant barrier,
combined with existing R-19 attic insulation, may reduce heat gain through the
ceiling from 16%-42%. For single-story houses, typically about 15%-25% of the
summer cooling load is due to ceiling heat gain. The heat gain reduction from
a radiant barrier installation will usually result in a total cooling load
savings of 2%-10%-possibly as high as 15% in attics insulated to R-11 or less.
Higher savings occur when retrofitting less efficient buildings. Buildings
with little to no attic insulation and a high volume of attic ventilation
typically provide the most dramatic energy savings from a radiant barrier. The
hotter and sunnier the climate is, the more beneficial the radiant barrier
installation becomes.
In new or remodel situations, installing
a radiant barrier may reduce the cooling load sufficiently to allow
installation of a smaller capacity air-conditioning system. In 1991, the U. S.
Department of Energy (DOE) published the Radiant Barrier Attic Fact Sheet,
which shows how to calculate the economics of radiant barriers and added
ceiling insulation. It includes an Energy Savings Worksheet with an example.
You can also use recent utility bills to
estimate annual radiant barrier savings. For each summer month you typically
operate your air conditioner, subtract an amount equal to your minimum spring
or fall bill (when no heating or cooling is needed). Add the savings for each
of the summer months to obtain an annual cooling cost savings. Compare this
annual cost savings to the expected cost of the radiant barrier installation
to determine how many years it will take to pay for the installation.
The decision to install a radiant
barrier system is not always based on a simple payback calculation. In cases
where spaces adjacent to the attic overheat during the day, installing a
radiant barrier system may be the most economical option. By lowering the room
temperature a few degrees, you may avoid the expense of reconfiguring or
installing an enlarged cooling system.
Because radiant barriers redirect
radiant heat back through the roofing materials, shingle temperatures may
increase between 1° to 10°F (17.2° to 12.2°C). This increase does not
appear to exceed the roof shingle design criteria. The overall effect on roof
life, if any, is not known.
If you live in a cold climate,
installing a radiant barrier is not generally recommended. Radiant barriers
are most effective in blocking summer radiant heat gain and saving
air-conditioning costs. In cold climates, air- conditioning is usually a much
lower priority than heating. Cold-climate homes also tend to have high attic
insulation levels. Although the radiant barrier may be somewhat effective in
retaining heat within a home, it may also block any winter radiant solar heat
gain in the attic.
At least one test in Minnesota with radiant barriers placed over R-19 attic
floor insulation, found no significant reduction in heat loss. In Alberta,
Canada, the net effect of the radiant barrier was only a 5% average reduction
in total annual heat loss through the roof. This amounts to about a 1% savings
in total annual energy consumption for heating.
For additional information contact:
Davis Energy Group (DEC)
123 C Street
Davis, CA 95616
Phone: (916) 753-1100; Fax: (916) 753-4125
Internet: (E-mail) info@fsec.ucs.edu;
(World Wide Web) http://www.fsec.ucf.edu
Reflective Insulation Manufacturers
Association (RIMA)
c/o Innovative Energy Corp.
Attn.: Robert Wadsworth, Membership Chairman
1213 West 145th Avenue
Crown Point, IN 46307
Phone: (800) 776-3645; Fax: (219) 662-7990
Internet: (E-mail) rima@mail.icongrp.com;
(World Wide Web) http://www.rima.net/
EREC is operated by NCI Information
Systems, Inc. for the National Renewable Energy Laboratory/U.S. Department of
Energy. The statements contained herein are based on information known to EREC
at the time of printing. No recommendations or endorsement of any product or
service is implied if mentioned by EREC.
Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy
Clearinghouse (EREC)
P.O. Box 3048 Merrifield, VA 22116
Voice: 1-800-DOE-EREC
E-mail: doe.erec@nciinc.com
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